PFAS in the Apparel Industry
PFAS in the Apparel Industry
The Damage of Forever Chemicals
Look at this new jacket I bought! It is perfect for hiking in rainy weather. The water just rolls right off, leaving me dry. I love this new technologically advanced fabric from this sustainable outdoor gear brand. I wish all of my clothes were like this; I wonder what makes this scientific miracle work...
The innovation of life-saving firefighting foams to no longer needing to grease pans have the same list of chemicals to thank. In foresight, these chemicals made everyday problems vanish. In hindsight, however, we now recognize the damage that a lack of research can create. The dependence on these chemicals makes it easy for companies to risk human and environmental health. Through examining their role in the apparel industry, solutions can be made to abandon their usefulness in place of something safer for all.
What Are PFAS and What Do They Do?
PFAS, or polyfluoroalkyl substances, are a list of around 9,000 human-made chemicals that never break down in the environment. These so-called “forever chemicals” are used for a variety of purposes, such as coating nonstick cookware and surfaces, providing stain resistance, and waterproofing clothing and outdoor gear. Because of their usefulness, many of the issues caused by PFAS are under-researched and, in some cases, overlooked in favor of profit. Some of these issues include liver problems, kidney and testicular cancer, increased risk of asthma, and a reduced response to vaccines. In addition to this, PFAS are endocrine disruptors and increase the chances of type 2 diabetes. There are a variety of studies about PFAS, one of which found that over 98% of Americans have PFAS in their blood. They are not like regular toxins that leave the human body after a certain amount of time, but rather stay in the kidneys for years because the body is not armed to detect them. This increases the likelihood of developing the aforementioned risks because the chances increase with prolonged exposure.
Although each PFAS are unique, they all have the fluorine-carbon bond, which is one of the strongest bonds in chemistry. Due to this, PFAS do not break down in the environment naturally, as they are synthetic. This is good for the functionality of waterproofing and stain-resistant clothing, but not so good at breaking down in our bodies and the environment. This is why they get the moniker “forever chemicals.”
How Do We Stop the Use of PFAS?
The EPA is slowly addressing PFAS by funding research programs and using legislation to ban certain types of PFAS, like PFOS and PFOA in drinking water. The problem with this is that these chemicals take years to research. The EPA only examines one chemical at once, which takes time and money. Examining one chemical from the PFAS list at a time allows others to slip through the cracks. In addition to this, once one is banned, the companies utilizing them will simply switch to the next forever chemical on the list. This problem is further explained in an article from PBS about PFAS.
“The amount of time it takes to thoroughly test any one chemical, using standard kinds of testing procedures, we’re talking anywhere from a minimum of five to probably 10 years per chemical and millions of dollars.”
“In the meantime, they’re just out there and people get exposed…Why are we still making chemicals, especially these, that will essentially never leave our environment?”
-Linda Birnbaum, former director of the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences for PBS
How Are PFAS Used in the Apparel Industry?
Although PFAS have infiltrated nearly everything that we encounter, the apparel industry is a growing concern, as demand for cheap, trendy clothing increases. It is especially prevalent in the fast fashion industry and the outdoor clothing industry. This is because there is a lack of regulation, which allows the abundant use of PFAS in clothing. In an article from CBC about toxic chemicals in the fast-fashion industry, PFAS are listed as a large safety concern.
“Diamond still has concern, particularly with the tendency for children to suck on clothing or put it in their mouths. Children's skin also can absorb chemicals easier than adults' skin.”
-Miriam Diamond, A professor at the University of Toronto and environmental chemist for CBC
In addition to this, many outdoor clothing items include special features like waterproofing, which can be useful for workers in many industries or outdoor leisure. Because of this usefulness to consumers, companies are resistant to discontinue the use of these harmful chemicals.
Although there is a lack of governmental regulation on PFAS, there are a few companies pioneering the removal of these chemicals from their brands. Some of these include Patagonia, Keen Footwear, and Levi Strauss & Co. Hopefully, the initiative from these companies and the education of the public will push other companies to follow suit. It is important to be aware of their complete infiltration into every aspect of human life because of how easily they leach into the water, air, and soil. This means that when clothes are washed, PFAS make their way to wastewater plants, most of which are not equipped to filter and dispose of PFAS. From there, they can be distributed to an endless list of places, some of which include rainwater and produce fields. By banning PFAS in the apparel industry, other areas where the chemicals can be addressed and solutions to filter them from the environment can begin. Much like CFCs in the 80s, a fundamental alteration needs to be made to clean up the mess.
What Can Consumers Do?
Next time you are searching for waterproof or stain-resistant clothing, remember that PFAS are not listed in the contents of the clothing. Rather, clothing manufacturers boast about water-repellent technology and other akin features. It should not be placed in the hands of the consumer to ensure that they are not being exposed by simply buying clothes. This responsibility should fall to the companies not backing up their products with proper research. Despite this, making this information accessible to the everyday consumer will incentivize these companies to change. The expression “vote with your dollar” often comes to mind when I research things like PFAS. Once enough people care and make an effort, change will follow.
Disclaimer:
Although this newsletter is oriented to the apparel industry, the issue of PFAS is prevalent in every area of life, with new research popping up every day. PFAS are used in everything from mascara to pizza boxes. It is baffling to see the scope of how intertwined PFAS are in our everyday lives. So much so, that a short newsletter could never do them justice. Not only is it an issue in the US, but in other countries as well. The EU has recognized the dangers of PFAS on human health and the environment and is in the process of phasing them out of production. The Biden-Harris administration has included PFAS clean-up in the infrastructure plan, but the EPA has yet to ban the entire list of chemicals, leaving it up to each state or company individually.
References:
https://ehp.niehs.nih.gov/doi/10.1289/EHP4092
https://www.epa.gov/pfas/pfas-explained
https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/article/pfas-synthetic-chemicals-water-toxic/?utm_campaign=nova&utm_content=1655512709&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook&fbclid=IwAR2-1B1gaQVXf-FpfZhSl7oQnUojeqYsMGXc7-Axx1OvQkCqN3n1nAN63nc
https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/marketplace-fast-fashion-chemicals-1.6193385
https://www.patagonia.com/our-footprint/pfc-free.html
https://issuu.com/fashion_fwd/docs/pfas_report_scorecard_8b69ef197cc3c4/7